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Alessandro Michele, the new Valentino’s Creative Director, has unveiled his debut collection for the house with the Resort 2025 collection.
Michele Unveils Debut Valentino Collection
In a surprising move, the former Gucci designer unveiled the Resort 2025 collection titled ‘Avant les Débuts,’ meaning ‘Before the Debuts,’ serves as an exciting prelude to his grand debut with the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which will be presented on the runway in September.
Unveiled in a lookbook after the Milan Men’s SS25 shows, this collection channels the same aesthetic that fuelled Michele’s successful tenure at Gucci.
The sheer volume of the collection is staggering, featuring 171 ready-to-wear looks for both men and women, along with 93 accessories.
No Runway, Big Impact
Since taking the helm in early March, Michele, the successor to departing Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli, has infused Valentino with much anticipation. Renowned for his decadent and maximalist aesthetic, Michele is expected to usher in a new era for the fashion house. And this surprising debut did just that. The Resort 2025 collection has garnered positive reviews from critics and fashion enthusiasts.
Harper Bazaar reviewed the collection as “the new Valentino is extremely Micheleian: retro prints, mashed-up textures, extreme layering, and ruffled youthful whimsy tied up in a big ol’ pussy bow. There’s also a lot of house founder Valentino Garavani in there, felt through the thoughtful nods to archival silhouettes from the 1960s and 1970s, like the prim, retro Jackie Kennedy–style suiting and lace-trimmed sheer blouses.”
Lofficiel mentioned that the collection represents the signature of the new creative director but also pays homage to the storied, vibrant Valentino legacy. These two philosophies of design are evident in the opulence, maximalism, and passion for beauty that has been historically cultivated by both Maison and Michele, as seen in his days at the helm of Gucci.
The Cut also expresses that the collection is not simply replicating the design philosophy that defined his successful tenure at Gucci. At Valentino, Michele’s designs exhibit a prettier, more delicate aesthetic with a slightly more restrained approach. The colour palette also reflects this shift, favouring cooler and lighter tones.
Fresh Eyes at Valentino
Despite Valentino Garavani’s reputation for refined evening gowns and stripped-back glamour, the Italian designer clarified in a Vogue interview celebrating Michele’s first collection that Garavani was not a minimalist. “[He was] rather a maximalist, even in the 70s when he was at his most streamlined,” he explained. “There was always a very Roman sense of opulence and excess in his work, distilled through an obsession for beauty.”
Michele’s first runway show for Valentino will occur during Paris Fashion Week this fall.
